Dehydrating FoodI use three main forms of food preservation: canning, freezing, and dehydrating. All three forms have advantages and disadvantages. Canning is the most complicated and freezing is the simplest. Dehydrating is slightly more complex than freezing because it requires specialized equipment, a dehydrator, and a little more time. Air drying is possible for foods like herbs, especially in dry climates, but is generally too slow to be safe for most other foods. Some people use solar dehydrators but I do not have experience with that method and will not discuss it here. There is a third method of preserving food, freeze drying, however, the machines to freeze dry are expensive, a minimum of $2500 and I do not have any experience with this method. Freeze-drying is superior to dehydrating in that the food rehydrates better and many things that cannot be dehydrated for long-term shelf-stable storage can be freeze-dried, such as meat and eggs. What Dehydrator Should I Buy The type of dehydrator to purchase depends on your budget. Many small, round, plastic dehydrators are reasonably priced at around $50 or less. One common brand is Nesco, and it is a great beginner unit. Larger, square dehydrators, usually with the fan in the back, are more efficient and even at drying, and generally cost $150-$250 or more. You can also find these in stainless steel if you are trying to avoid plastic. I bought a LEM, stainless steel dehydrator but other brands that receive good reviews include Excaliber, Cosori, Cabela’s, and more. One feature to look for is temperature control, preferably as low as 95°F for delicate herbs. My dehydrator’s top temperature is 145°F. Jerky is supposed to reach 160°F but NCHFP recommends pre-heating your meat to a safe temperature before dehydrating it or heating it after it is dry. This way you do not need a unit to reach 160°F to make jerky but some units on the market do reach 160°F. Some dehydrators also include a timer. A timer is not something to pay extra for as it is unnecessary. Instead, you want to dry your food until it is done. You can find ballpark drying times but you cannot guess the exact time needed as it depends on the water content of the food and the local humidity where you are dehydrating. You also do not want to put on a timer, have it stop while you are away from home or overnight, and have the food re-absorb moisture from the air or worse start to mold, before you get back to check on it. Where to Find Produce?I use dehydration primarily as a way to preserve food from my garden. That said, there is nothing wrong with dehydrating produce from the grocery store, farmers market, produce auction, or anywhere else you can find it. Usually, at least one vegetable in my garden fails each year so I sometimes need to buy produce. The first place I check for fresh vegetables is the local Amish produce stands, but not everyone lives in Amish country. I also sell or give away my extra produce on Facebook Marketplace so Marketplace or Craigslist is also a great place to look. Some people also get great deals at produce auctions. How to DehydrateThe beginning steps to dehydrate food are similar to those to freeze food. Most vegetables store and rehydrate better if you blanch them first but there are exceptions like peppers, mushrooms, and onions that do not need blanching. Fruits generally do not need to be blanched, although you may want to soak them in something like Fruit Fresh which contains citric acid to reduce browning, and neither do herbs. I like to follow the Ball Blue Book or NCHFP guidelines for whether or not a food needs to be blanched and how long. Before blanching you should wash your produce and chop it if necessary. Once chopped, blanch it in either boiling water or steam and immediately move it into an ice bath so it cools quickly. Blanching inactivates enzymes in the food that lead to reduced quality or color during preservation. If you only plan to store your dehydrated food for a short period you can often skip this step but long-term storage benefits from blanching. Dehydrated food also rehydrates better if blanched first. Next, you dehydrate your food at the recommended temperature. Generally 95°F for herbs, 125°F for vegetables, 135°F for fruit, and jerky should be as high as your dehydrator goes (usually 145-160°F), but finish at 160°F in the oven for safety according to NCHFP or Ball directions. How long to dehydrate depends on many factors such as ambient humidity and how much water content the food has. To check if your food is completely dried, allow it to cool for about 15 minutes and then check for residual moisture. Many foods should snap or crack when cool (some foods with more sugar like fruits, including tomatoes, may be more leathery). Next store your food in an airtight container. I prefer mason jars with canning lids (the lids can be old lids). I store my dehydrated with a food-safe silica packet and let the jar sit on my counter for a few days, checking for moisture. If no water droplets appear you can store them long-term (usually up to 1 year). As long as the food stays dry you can store it longer but nutritional quality and color may suffer. I also sometimes vacuum seal my jars using a mason jar attachment with my vacuum sealer for longer storage. How to Use Dehydrated FoodDehydrated food that is rehydrated will not be the same as fresh, canned or frozen food. It often has a different texture that some people will not like. I use most of my dehydrated food in soups or stews so it rehydrates as it cooks. Some of my favorite things to dry are herbs, tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, turmeric, peppers, carrots, parsnips, and many fruits. Many of these I powder as needed to make onion powder, garlic powder, ginger powder, chili or paprika, etc. to use as seasonings. I also dry zucchini in long slices for lasagna as it rehydrates nicely if you add extra sauce when cooking. Kale and other greens dry and powder nicely for smoothies, meatloaf, and more. Many people dehydrate eggs and meat (fully cook them first) but I choose not to because even once dried, the best practice is to store them in the freezer to reduce the risk of fats going rancid. ResourcesI listed some links to safe resources on dehydration below. The best source for food preservation is always the National Center for Home Food Preservation (NCHFP). Although they have limited funding, they continue to test preservation recipes for safety. Ball is another good online resource. Ball also has books, including the Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving (a new version released in 2024) that includes canning, freezing, and dehydrating information. Ball also tests their recipes for safety although they occasionally have errors in their books so if in doubt double check with NCHFP for a similar recipe and use an up-to-date book (2016 or newer). A third great resource is a blog called “The Purposeful Pantry”. The woman who runs this blog also runs a Facebook group called “Dehydrating Tips and Tricks.”
0 Comments
Rudbeckia Species: Black-Eyed Susans and More |
Growing Celery
Favorite Varieties
Starting Celery From Seed
Growing Celery
Harvesting Celery
Celery Diseases
Caution
Conclusion
References
- Cox, Jeff. 1988. How to Grow Vegetables Organically. Artichokes, p. 107-111. Rodale Press, Inc.
- Johnny’s Selected Seeds. Celery & Celeriac – Key Growing Information. https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/vegetables/celery-and-celeriac/celery-and-celeriac-key-growing-information.html
- UMass Extension Vegetable Program. Celery, Anthracnose. 2020. https://ag.umass.edu/vegetable/fact-sheets/celery-anthracnose
- University of Minnesota Extension. Fruit and Vegetable News. Leafhopper Watch: Hot Weather and Aster Yellows Risk. 2021. https://blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu/2021/06/leafhopper-watch-hot-weather-and-aster.html
- Finkelstein E, Afek U, Gross E, Aharoni N, Rosenberg L, Halevy S. An outbreak of phytophotodermatitis due to celery. Int J Dermatol. 1994 Feb;33(2):116-8. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-4362.1994.tb01539.x. PMID: 8157392.
Growing Artichokes in Northern Climates
Starting Artichokes from Seed
Growing Artichokes
Harvesting
Eating Artichokes
Conclusion
References
- Artichokes – Key Growing Information. Johnny’s Selected Seeds. https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/vegetables/artichokes/artichoke-key-growing-information.html
- Cox, Jeff. 1988. How to Grow Vegetables Organically. Artichokes, p. 107-111. Rodale Press, Inc.
- Smith, Richard, et al. Artichoke Production in California. 2008. University of California. Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources. http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu Publication 722.
Jerusalem Artichokes
Introduction
How to Grow Jerusalem Artichokes
Harvesting Jerusalem Artichokes
How to Eat Jerusalem Artichokes
References
Growing Great Onions
Introduction
Selecting the Correct Day Length Onion
Long-Day Onions
Intermediate-Day Onions
Short-Day Onions
Types of Onions
My Favorite Onions
Yellow Onions
White Onions
Red Onions
Scallions (AKA Bunching, Green, or Spring Onions)
Sweet Onions
Growing Onions from Sets, Seedlings, or Seeds
Onion Sets
Onion Seedlings
Onion Seeds
Starting Onions from Seed
Planting Onions
To plant seedlings, either ones you grew or purchased, I find using a dibble (AKA dibber) is helpful. A dibble is simply a sharpened stake attached to a handle that is also useful when planting bulbs, garlic, etc. Once my onion bed is prepared (rake out, mix in compost, fertilizer, etc.), I lay down the mulch. I used to mulch after I planted the onions, but it is a pain to get the mulch around the tiny transplants without covering them up. Last year I mulched first before making my holes and it was much easier. I use the dibble to push a hole through the mulch and soil. Pop in the seedlings and tamp around to firm the soil around the transplants.
Onions like full sun, and if you have heavy soil a raised bed will help with soil drainage and improve your bulb size. I like to use nitrogen-rich fertilizer monthly throughout the growing season such as fish emulsion or blood meal. Stop fertilizing when the necks of the onions start softening before they fall over. Once they fall over, they are done growing and bulb size will no longer increase.
Harvesting Onions
Saving Onion Seed
Conclusion
References
- Ochar K, Kim SH. Conservation and Global Distribution of Onion (Allium cepa L.) Germplasm for Agricultural Sustainability. Plants (Basel). 2023 Sep 18;12(18):3294. doi: 10.3390/plants12183294. PMID: 37765458; PMCID: PMC10535454.
- Cox, Jeff. 1988. How to Grow Vegetables Organically. Rodale’s Organic Gardening Magazine, Rodale Press, Emmaus, Pennsylvania.
- Onions – Key Growing Information. Johnny’s Selected Seeds. https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/vegetables/onions/onions-key-growing-information.html
Milkweeds and Monarchs
References
- Karen Oberhauser. Monarch Winter 2022–2023 Population Numbers Released. University of Wisconsin-Madison Arboretum. https://arboretum.wisc.edu/news/arboretum-news/monarch-winter-2022-2023-population-numbers-released/
- Cranshaw, W. and Shetlar, D. Garden Insects of North America, 2nd Edition. Princeton University Press. 2018.
- Kartesz, J.T., The Biota of North America Program (BONAP). 2015. North American Plant Atlas. (http://bonap.net/napa). Chapel Hill, N.C. [maps generated from Kartesz, J.T. 2015. Floristic Synthesis of North America, Version 1.0. Biota of North America Program (BONAP). (in press)].
- Pocius et al. (2018.) Monarch Butterflies Show Differential Utilization of Nine Midwestern Milkweed Species. Frontiers in Ecology and Evolution. Volume 6. https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fevo.2018.00169
- Shaw, Tina. The butterfly effect. Even small efforts can make a big difference for monarchs. U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. https://www.fws.gov/story/small-efforts-can-make-big-difference-monarchs
- Pelton, Emma. (15 June 2023). Keep Monarchs Wild: Why Captive Rearing Isn’t The Way To Help Monarchs. Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation. https://xerces.org/blog/keep-monarchs-wild
- Morris, Gail & Kline, Christopher & Morris, Scott. (2015). Status of Danaus plexippus Population in Arizona. Journal of the Lepidopterists' Society. 69. 91-107. 10.18473/lepi.69i2.a10.
My Favorite Seed Companies
Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company
Fedco Seeds
Rohrer Seeds
Johnny's Selected Seeds
MIgardener
Conclusion
Author
In 2016, my family and I moved from the New York City area to small town Wisconsin. Our move, this website and blog (and our previous Etsy store) is the result of our desire over the past several years to simplify our lives, increase our quality of life, reconnect with nature, and enjoy a more self-sufficient life. I grew up as a country kid in central Pennsylvania working on my grandfather's fruit farm and as a corn "de-tassler" at a local seed farm. My background is in biology where my love of nature originated. I am a former research scientist and professor and have now transitioned to a part-time stay-at-home mom, self-employed tutor, and small business owner. Thank you for taking the time to check out my site.
Marisa
Archives
May 2024
April 2024
March 2024
February 2024
January 2024
December 2023
November 2023
March 2023
January 2023
May 2019
March 2019
November 2018
October 2017
September 2017
August 2017
February 2017
January 2017
Categories
All
3-Pronged Cultivator
Aerogarden
Antique
Apothecary Glasses
Artichokes
Atlas Gloves
ATV
Bacillus Thuringiensis
Bare Root Trees
Beer Glasses
Berries
Black-Eyed Susan
Bleached Pinecones
Bleached Pinecone Wreaths
Bt
Butterflies
Cabbage
Canning
Celery
Chard
Chemistry Glasses
Chickens
Chicken Tractor
Cold Crops
Cold Frame
Collards
Compost
Cornish Cross
Daisies
Deer
Deer Fencing
Dehydrating Food
Dried Flowers
Drip Irrigation
Dual Purpose Chickens
Ducks
EBay
Eggs
Extend The Growing Season
Fall Gardening
Farm Life
Favorite Gardening Tools
Fermentation
Flower Gardening
Food Preservation
Frost Dates
Fruit
Fruit Trees
Fruit Wine
Garden Hod
Garden Huckleberries
Gardening
Garden Pests
Garden Seat
Garlic Scape Recipes
Garlic Scapes
GMO Seeds
Goldenrod
Grapes
Greenhouse
Growing Garlic
Growing Herbs
Health
Heirloom Seeds
Herbs
Hill Crops
Home Decor
Homemade Jam
Hori Hori Soil Knife
Hot Sauce
How To Start Seeds
Hybrid Or F1 Seeds
Hydroponics
Insecticides
Japanese Weeding Sickle
Jerusalem Artichokes
Kale
Lactic Acid Fermentation
Leatherman Multi-Tool
Lettuce
Maple Syrup
Meat Birds
Milkweed
Monarchs
Mulch
Mulching
Native Plants
Nightshades
Onions
Open Pollinated Seeds
Orchard
Organic Gardening
Organic Pest Control
Peas
Peppers
Pest Control
PIckles
Pinecone Wreath
Pinecone Wreaths
Pruners
Raised Beds
Ranger Chickens
Rudbeckia Flowers
Sauerkraut
Save Money
Seed Companies
Seed Saving
Seed Tapes
Self-Sufficiency
Soaker Hoses
Square-Foot Gardening
Sun Hat
Sustainability
Tansy
Ticks
Tomatoes
Trailer
Turnips
Two Ponds Farm
Vegetable Gardening
Vintage
Wine
Wine Grapes
Wood-Fired Evaporators
Wreaths
Yarrow